Management Cases

From London to social media: the digital evolution of Burberry

The challenge

Is it possible to be a luxury brand with a long-standing tradition and, at the same time, to effectively embrace innovation to become a virtuous example of how to go digital? This is the momentous challenge that Burberry has faced in recent years. The company was founded in 1856 when Thomas Burberry, then just 21, opened his first shop in London with the idea of creating a new waterproof fabric (gabardine) for his now-legendary trench coats. Along with the Burberry check (the iconic design of the lining), these coats would become symbols not only of the company, but of British style the world over.  

 

In 2020, online sales in the luxury market totaled €49 billion, compared to €33 billion in 2019, and online purchases nearly doubled, surging from 12% to 23%.  The data suggest that by 2025, online is destined to become the leading channel for buying luxury products, also in light of the fact that younger generations – with digital purchasing habits - represent over two-thirds of all consumers. So, to face the evolution in the sector, already back in 2014 Burberry earmarked 60% of its marketing budget to social media. This commitment showed real determination, and the results were not long in coming: today (November 2022) the company counts more than 19 million followers on Instagram and over 17 million on Facebook.  

  

In a highly fragmented, constantly changing market, all the players in the world of luxury are having to make an exceptional effort to win the loyalty of their customers, who are in search of holistic experiences today more than ever before. The want to interact with the brand, its products, its communication, and with other consumers. They’re looking for quality products with strong values that reflect their personal style and make them feel like members of a community. A challenge which Burberry is tackling head on. 

The numbers 

 

Company: Burberry 

Industry: fashion 

When and where it was founded: London (UK), 1856 

Sales: £2.8 billion (2021) 

Revenues: £479 million (2021) 

Employees: 9,200 

 

When in 1997 Victor Barnett took the helm as president of Burberry, one of his first decisions was to hire Rose Marie Bravo as CEO with the intent of reorganizing the company and expanding the business impact of the brand image. But this corporate strategy resulted in an excessive dilution of the brand value due to a licensing policy that was too permissive. 

 

In 2006, it became apparent that the company had to win back its market positioning. Angela Ahrendts, the new CEO, decided to reverse course by implementing an innovative strategy. The biggest challenge ahead of her was to introduce the culture of the traditional trench coat with the target that the company had to reach to stay in business: young digital natives in new markets, in particular the US and China. To do so, Burberry decided to focus on digital.  
 

From that moment on, the history of Burberry and the brand’s British identity became the theme of captivating digital storytelling, perfectly suited to being shared on virtual platforms. The London fashion house was the first of the big players in the industry to experiment with customer engagement via social media and other platforms (especially YouTube). The videos shared with the digital public in those years were engaging and exciting; the objective was to put the brand’s British soul and its story center stage.  

 

In 2021 the company launched its first flagship store, brimming with sophisticated technology, in Regent Street in London. By the end of 2013, when Ahrendts left the company for a position at Apple, it was clear that Burberry had been moving in the right direction in terms of acquiring new customers in strategic global markets, but hadn’t yet seen satisfactory results. Ahrendts’ strategy was successful in reversing the deterioration of the brand’s prestige and stopping counterfeiting. But Burberry’s newly rediscovered identity, totally centered on London and the old British trench coat, did not seem to be attracting enough interest from the new targets. 

 

Then in 2016, Marco Gobbetti took over as Burberry’s new CEO, with the mission of winning new targets by reaching younger and less traditional markets, in particular in Asia and America. With this in mind, he did a drastic about face with the company, starting not from storytelling about the brand, but from the product itself. Even digital took on a new role, becoming a lever for transforming the entire business, not just brand communication. This radical revolution reached its peak with the arrival of Riccardo Tisci as creative director. He presented a new collection with a provocatively fresh style, and even a new logo. The new brand values were: exuberance, power, diversity, and pride. New celebrity endorsers were brought on board too: Marcus Rashford, Manchester United star, the rapper M Huncho and the singer Mahmood. 

 

In 2020, Burberry’s retail sales stalled in Europe due to Covid-19, but sales performance held steady in Asian markets, thanks also - and above all - to Gobbetti’s digital oriented strategy. In the first three months of 2021, the company closed at +86% on an annual basis, with £479 million in revenues. These numbers also reflected new projects, mainly in China, with which the company explored the potentialities of the social store, a retailing approach blending the physical and virtual (and social) dimensions of the shopping experience.  

The takeaways

Social media can be the heart of a company’s digital transformation – and business - going far beyond the borders of brand communication. From the beginning, for Burberry social media were also a form of social commerce. The company stepped up the use of these platforms so that their new targets could buy the collections presented via online streaming even before they appeared on the catwalks in Paris, Milan and London. Burberry played with the language of games, and automated services that were personalized via chat boxes, all in innovative ways.  

 

In addition to the digital strategy, Riccardo Tisci ideated collections and campaigns dedicated specifically to the Chinese market. The new social store opened in 2020 in Shengen was designed to inspire, entertain, and engage consumers thanks to flows of content from social media to the store and vice versa. Thanks to Burberry’s market performance in 2020 in Asia and America, the company won a place of prestige in the top ten ranking of luxury brands. Gobbetti left Burberry at the end of 2021, right when his strategy was showing business results that aligned with corporate objectives.  

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