Management Cases

The Polo Circolabile: disability management at Loro Piana

The challenge

The Loro Piana family’s wool textile business dates back to the second half of the 1800s. Today the company is part of the LVMH Group, leader in high-end luxury products and active in every major market of the world. Before starting the project Polo Circolabile (Circulation Center) in 2014-2015, the company had been reluctant to address the question of disabilities, and only did so in a reactive way. In fact, when Loro Piana was below the quota of disabled workers set by Italy’s Law 68/99, the personnel office would hire people to work mainly in the production departments, where there were basic manual tasks to perform. What’s more, the process focused on recruiting workers who, thanks to their character and behavior, could be onboarded without creating too much friction in workgroups. This approach, dictated by the pressing need to quickly meet the quota, made it difficult in some cases to find the right match between the candidate and the position. On occasion, this gave rise to dissatisfaction, as well as a general sense of suspicion, and a disconnect with the reality of disabilities.

Thanks to the project Polo Circolabile (Circulation Center), Loro Piana successfully changed their approach and overcame internal resistance to the inclusion of disabled workers in the organization.

The numbers

  • Currently the company has two divisions: Textiles (production of exclusive fabrics, yarns, and materials for interiors and décor), and Luxury Goods (high-end clothing).
  • Until 2013, Loro Piana was run by the family, but after a number of acquisitions, the company became a multinational; in the matrix-based organizational structure, central functions are responsible for direction and coordination.
  • Since 2017, the company has had a head of Corporate Social Responsibility, an office in the Internal Communication and CSR Department.

The Polo Circolabile found a champion at Loro Piana in Cecilia Cerra. Thanks to her personal sensitivity (her own son is disabled) and professional expertise, she initiated the project with the objective of fostering cultural change in the company with regard to disabilities.

To begin, two days of corporate volunteering were organized in collaboration with the Special Olympics Association and the LVMH Group. This was an opportunity to engage with people with disabilities for company employees through sports activities, and to talk about their personal experiences with temporary illnesses or disabilities. These two events provided the content for the video Close to Me, an internal communication tool that helped establish the cultural premises for the project.

The Polo Circolabile is primarily a space for handcrafting products, set up inside the company, where people with disabilities from the Orso Blu Cooperative and the Special Olympics Association work on fabrics and materials and take on tasks that were previously outsourced. The cooperative, and in particular association president Francesca Vincio, played key roles in establishing and developing the Polo at Loro Piana, a project which has evolved on several fronts.

First, in terms of space. Initially, the Polo workers were given a large hall, which was usually used to simulate the sales floor in a store, so periodically it had to be cleared out for this purpose. Later, to avoid this problem, the company decided to allocate an open space with desks in the men’s department for the project. This meant more stability and prompted a change in the relationships between the disabled people and employees. In fact, the Loro Piano staff had the chance to spend time with the Polo workers and came to appreciate not only their technical and manual skills but also their commitment and dedication to their jobs.

The second evolution was in the activities that the Polo workers performed. They began by creating objects from unused material for specific occasions, or removing labels from unsold stock so they could be donated to third-sector associations. One of their new activities was to create Christmas gifts for employees: with fabric remnants the workers made bookmarks. These gifts were very popular and also helped to form a fresh perspective on workers with disabilities, who were no longer seen as capable of doing only reductive, routine tasks. More activities were added too, such as organizing a digital archive of the Loro Piano legacy, consisting of 5,000 physical garments, a priority project for the company.

The ultimate goal was not only to set up a social hub, where reverse-mentoring activities could take place, making it easier to share skills and activities with other divisions but also to legitimize the Polo as an autonomous organizational division in its own right. To achieve this, the first step was to come up with a visual identity and a logo, to then design an actual label to affix to Polo-made items. This served to shine a light on inclusion in the workplace and to promote the project both within the company and on the market. In addition, ISNET, an association which supports social enterprises, made an initial estimate of the social impact of the project. Beyond the advantages linked to the corporate climate and employee motivation, findings showed that for every euro invested in the project, the ROI was €2.19.

The takeaways

The Polo could be seen as a form of segregation for the people with disabilities who are involved, as they work in a separate space; their “office” is in the building, but they are not full-fledged employees of Loro Piana. Although they are inside the organization, they remain outsiders, both because they belong to a cooperative and because their physical space is internal to but independent from the rest of the organization. This calls for a reflection on the future of the Polo as an autonomous entity, and on the position of disabled workers in the company.

By the same token, granted these limitations, the creation of the Polo, has helped transform the way people view disabilities, setting a positive process in motion at every level, both in relation to HR processes and the organizational culture. As an example of the first, a protocol has been established for recruitment, and the language used for job descriptions has been revised to avoid stereotypes and biases, collaborating with external suppliers. The second is enhanced through training and awareness-raising activities for employees.

The objectives which aim to shore up this project in the future are myriad: to allocate a budget, on par with all the other functions; to analyze the social impact of the project to communicate the benefits that it can offer the local community; to ramp up external communication and consolidate the project further from an organizational standpoint; to disseminate the skills that have been honed thanks to the Polo at Loro Piano.

SHARE ON