Identity over ideology: how Gen Z is rediscovering vintage

It is not (only) to save the planet that Generation Z loves to dress vintage. Behind the rediscovery of clothing from decades past lies their need to express who they are, to stand out, to build a personal identity through unique objects. This is the key takeaway of a study by Generoso Branca, together with Mario D’Arco, Vittoria Marino and Riccardo Resciniti (University of Sannio), published in the Journal of Consumer Behaviour.

By analyzing more than 390 young Italians aged 18 to 25, the authors show that hedonic motivations – in particular the search for uniqueness and involvement in fashion – are the main drivers of vintage purchases, far more than environmental or ideological reasons. Economic considerations such as budget availability also have an impact, but they’re secondary to pleasure and self-expression. Along these lines, Generation Z prefers to buy vintage at markets and physical stores rather than online. In other words, the tangible experience, the fun, and the social dimension of “live” shopping count more than the convenience of digital retail.

Understanding second-hand fashion

In recent years, the global second-hand fashion market has experienced double-digit growth, for the most part thanks to younger consumers. Yet academic research on their motivations is limited; what’s more, it’s focused mainly on older generations (Baby Boomers, Gen X, Millennials) or on second-hand consumption in general, rather than on vintage fashion itself.

The work of Branca and his colleagues was designed to fill this gap, applying two complementary theoretical frameworks:

• The Generational Cohort Theory, which explains how formative experiences shape values and consumer behavior.
• The Self-Determination Theory, which distinguishes intrinsic motivations (linked to pleasure and personal satisfaction) from extrinsic ones (stemming from social, ideological or economic pressures).

The goal: to understand whether Gen Z’s interest in vintage is driven mainly by sustainability ideals or by identity-, emotion-, and style-related needs.

Need for uniqueness

The project was developed in two complementary phases at the University of Sannio.

In the first, a focus group with eight university students brought to light three broad families of motivations:

• Critical or ideological – distance from mass consumption and sustainability.
• Hedonic – fashion involvement, need for uniqueness, and the pleasure of shopping as a recreational activity.
• Economic – price awareness and budget availability.

Already in this qualitative phase, the researchers observed that environmental and anti-consumerist motivations were marginal, while the playful aspect and the desire to stand out prevailed: “It’s more fun, it makes me feel unique, I find things that no one else has,” participants said.

The second phase quantitatively tested these insights through a survey of 390 respondents. The statistical model produced clear results:

• The need for uniqueness is the strongest predictor of attitudes toward vintage fashion.
• This is followed by fashion involvement and budget availability.
• Sustainability and distance from consumerism proved insignificant.

In other words, the more a young person describes vintage shopping as an “ideological act,” the less they tend to experience it positively as a consumption experience.

In terms of purchasing channels, interesting results also emerge. A positive attitude toward vintage fashion has a much greater impact on the intention to buy offline than online, and leisure time acts as a moderating factor. Also, people who view shopping as a recreational activity are far more likely to choose markets, fairs, and physical stores.

A deeper engine

The research supports the idea that Generation Z buys vintage more for reasons of identity than of ideology.

Behind the sustainability narrative lies a deeper engine: the desire for authenticity, creativity, and distinction in a market dominated by standardized products.

For fashion managers and second-hand brands, the findings offer several useful suggestions:

• Avoid focusing exclusively on making the case for green, which risks being unpersuasive.
• Value instead experiential and identity-based levers, showing how vintage allows for a personal, unrepeatable look.
• Build immersive physical spaces that make the search for a unique garment an experience of discovery and sociability (events, artistic collaborations).
• Use digital tools for what they do best: providing efficiency, a wide assortment, and authenticity guarantees.

For policy makers, the study offers a broader cue: promoting circularity in fashion requires combining sustainability with symbolic and playful dimensions that can speak to younger consumers in search of meaning and pleasure.

Branca, G., M. D'Arco, V. Marino, and R. Resciniti. 2025. “Beyond Sustainability Narratives: Exploring Generation Z's Shopping Motivations in Vintage Fashion.” Journal of Consumer Behaviour 1–22. https://doi.org/10.1002/cb.70050.